National clothing as a reflection of the people's culture
Today, garments with archaic cuts and traditional elements are mainly preserved in museum collections. One of the institutions that carefully preserves and popularizes this rich heritage is the National Central Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan, with a two-century history. Its collection includes diverse samples of clothing – from headwear to footwear. In this regard, we discussed the types of national costumes and their features with Moldir Saparkhankyz, a custodian of the museum's collections.– Tell us about the history of the collection's formation.– The formation of this collection is directly related to the period of the museum's founding in Orenburg. In this regard, the clothing fund is conditionally divided into two stages – "Orenburg" and "Almaty." Among the earliest exhibits collected during the Orenburg period are items associated with the name of Jangir Khan. After the museum's relocation to Almaty, the ethnographic focus of the fund significantly expanded: during historical and ethnographic expeditions to various regions of Kazakhstan, the collection was enriched with a significant number of valuable artifacts.Striving to return this rich heritage to a wide range of visitors, the National Central Museum presents to residents and guests of the city, as well as tourists from near and far abroad, the exhibition "Ulttyk Kiyim – Ult Madenietinin Zharkyn Korsetkishi" (National Costume - A Bright Indicator of National Culture). The exhibition allows one to understand the national costume not only as an element of everyday life but also as a carrier of a cultural code, embodying the history and worldview of the people.– What do you consider to be the main feature of traditional Kazakh clothing?– Traditional clothing, formed during the era of nomadic life and preserved over subsequent centuries, has not lost its ethnic identity, organically adapting to the changes of time. This is confirmed by both archaeological finds and written historical sources. A characteristic example is the so-called "kebenekshe oiyip pishu" cut – a special clothing design that provides freedom of movement, resistance to natural conditions, and maximum adaptability to the nomadic lifestyle.The harsh climatic conditions of Central Asia, prolonged migrations, and the inseparable connection with the natural environment dictated special requirements for clothing. It had to be warm, protect from wind and precipitation, and ensure comfort and freedom of movement. Thus, the traditional Kazakh costume embodies not only aesthetic values but also rational, functionally verified solutions corresponding to the people's way of life.– Headwear holds a special place in national clothing. Can you tell us more about this?– Absolutely, headwear is the most noticeable and symbolically rich part of the Kazakh costume. For example, "saukele" serves as the main symbol of the bride, while "kimeshek" denotes a married woman. "Zhauluk" was considered a sacred item expressing respect for the mother. Women's scarves and shawls differed depending on age, social status, and regional characteristics.The classification of scarves among Kazakhs was based on embroidery, fringe, and weaving method: embroidered scarf, fringed scarf, looped scarf, dense scarf. By material, wool, silk, tea, latte, and linen were distinguished. "Zhauluk" also had regional features: in Western Kazakhstan, it was sometimes worn over a kimeshek for decorative purposes. Red embroidery on a kimeshek meant that the woman was married, while white with a "su tartu" pattern indicated she was a widow.Men's headwear reflects harmony with the natural environment. "Kalpak" is a light and comfortable headwear for sun protection, while "tymak" provides reliable protection in severe frosts. There were different types of "tymak": "tulki tymak," "pushpak tymak," "sensen tymak." All these items demonstrate the skill of Kazakh artisans, their ability to create thoughtful, functional clothing that fully corresponds to the lifestyle and conditions of nomadic life.– What clothing samples are presented at the exhibition?– The exhibition features rare clothing samples from the 19th-20th centuries, including "saukele," richly decorated "shapan," "kamzol," and "kimeshek." Special attention is drawn to the "zere" headwear, which was worn under the saukele. By the end of the 19th century, this type of headwear fell out of use, but an archaic version has been preserved in the museum fund and is demonstrated to visitors today.Outerwear among Kazakhs served not only a practical function but also had social significance. For instance, "shapan" was universal clothing – worn both in everyday life and for special occasions. The exhibition features a "kuderi shapan" from the late 19th century: a men's trapezoidal shapan made of brown felt, unlined, with edges and sleeves neatly finished inwards. This exhibit entered the museum fund from Orenburg in the 1930s.– What can be said about samples of national clothing where decorative function is harmoniously combined with practical?– In Kazakh clothing, beauty and functionality always went hand in hand. "Kamzol" and "beshpent" serve as clear examples of such a combination. "Ton" and "ishik" were considered reliable protection from the cold, and ishikter sewn from valuable animal skin also served as indicators of social status.The exhibition also presents various types of "zhargak shalbar." Of particular note is the zhargak shalbar sewn by Zaure Ongarbayeva, a resident of the South Kazakhstan region. The sides and trouser legs are decorated with intricate embroidery on a felt base: winding ornaments, semicircles, images of "ala kurt," multi-leaf flowers, long leafy stems, flower buds. The contours of the pattern are done with brown thread, the inner parts with multicolored threads. A decorative yellow silk lacing is threaded through a loop in the waistband. This item entered the museum from Almaty from Zhaukhar Fakhriyeva in 1951.In addition, the exhibition features other samples: "zhyrym balak," "kuderi zhargak," "teri shalbar," and embroidered "zhargak shalbar," demonstrating the harmonious combination of aesthetics and practicality in Kazakh clothing.– What can be said about traditional Kazakh footwear?– Kazakh footwear is the result of high craftsmanship. It was made by specially trained masters, and this art was passed down from generation to generation. "Masi," "saptama etik," "pima" – all items were created from natural materials and distinguished by impeccable quality. Each type of footwear was developed taking into account the season, the owner's age, and their occupation. Thus, Kazakh craftsmanship demonstrates a harmonious combination of practical function and aesthetic taste.– What is the significance of national clothing in modern society?– As President Kassym-Jomart Tokayev emphasized, national clothing is a bright and vivid manifestation of the people's culture. The traditional Kazakh costume represents a unique value, accumulating rich historical, cultural, and social information. It reflects the people's worldview, way of life, aesthetic preferences, age and social differences, as well as regional peculiarities. Therefore, the preservation, study, and revival of national clothing remain the most important task for every generation.