In the era of globalization and fast fashion, where uniqueness is increasingly lost, national brands offer not just an ethnic style, but a deep understanding of Kazakh culture in a modern context. However, against the backdrop of global interest in local brands, in Kazakhstan there is still a gap between national clothing and everyday life. We talked with the founder of the cultural space, designer and keeper of meanings Meruert Aubakirova about how her brand became a great start for the development of talented designers of the country and how a brand with a philosophy of careful attitude to traditions, the code of ancestors and identity was born from a personal request.
Meruert, tell us how your journey began?
– “DӘSTUR” was born from the desire to preserve and rethink Kazakh traditions in a modern context. It all started with the fact that I was looking for a beautiful, modern chapan as a gift for a friend who married a Frenchman. Unfortunately, the market did not offer anything that would reflect the spirit of the times and at the same time be deeply Kazakh, with a touch of ethnicity and respect for the roots.
Now our conceptual brand is not just a store, but a cultural space where design becomes a bridge between generations. We are not about nostalgia. We are about a living, conscious connection with the roots. Even our logo is a reference to the support of the family, ancestors, to the foundation on which everything rests.
How is the process of creating products organized if you do not have your own production?
- We do not sew ourselves, and this is the point. "DӘSTUR" is a hub that unites artisans, designers, craftsmen and buyers. Many know how to create beautiful things, but do not know how to promote themselves. This is a pain that I understand well. Therefore, we created a space where craftsmen can exhibit, sell, communicate with the audience. I know their difficulties: lack of personnel, need to look for good fabrics, a long process of handwork ... Creativity needs not only an idea, but also a stable support system.
Do you also organize master classes in your hub? What are they about?
-Yes, my goal is to create a connecting bridge between the young and adult generations, who share experiences, talk about traditions, origins and express respect and reverence for their family and roots. The concept of my brand and hub is precisely that talented artisans, designers can create and declare themselves. Through decor and ethnic clothing and interior elements, we show the history of the past and want our consumers to return to their origins.
How do you assess the current state of the ethnic industry in Kazakhstan?
- It is just forming. There are strong designers, but there are few accessible platforms. Or they are too expensive for a young master. That is why we created "DӘSTUR" - to fill this gap. Online sales are growing, but there are not enough offline points where you can "feel" the thing, try it on, talk to the author. We need such "live" places. Why are items by Kazakh designers more expensive than mass-market clothing?
— This is an honest economy. We cannot produce millions of copies. Materials are often purchased abroad; the country does not yet have the necessary raw material base. The work is handmade, the collections are small. Yes, it is more expensive, but there is history, quality, and soul behind it. Uniqueness cannot be cheap.
What is needed for national clothing and designers to become truly popular?
— We must build an ecosystem. First, educational programs on ethno-design and crafts, so that young people know not only trends, but also roots. Second, support for startups and young designers — from grants to collaborations. Third, it is necessary to make collections more accessible so that people can wear them every day. And, of course, large-scale events are needed — pop-up fairs, festivals, shows that bring together designers, artisans and the public.
Where can aspiring designers make a name for themselves?
— At local and international exhibitions, fashion platforms. And certainly — in live creative spaces, such as «DӘSTUR». Here you can get not just a «shelf» or «corner», but live feedback, community, support, the opportunity to try collaborations. This is the optimal path of development.
What is the best way to promote local brands in Kazakhstan? Are there any support mechanisms?
— We are the mechanism. We have taken on the role of a hub: we unite craftsmen, organize events, create an atmosphere that you want to return to. Through a personal story, acquaintance with the craftsman, a person falls in love with a product. And the main advice is not to work alone. Community, collaborations, partnership — these are not just trendy words, they are accelerators of success.
Do you notice that the younger generation is not always interested in national goods? Why does this happen?
- The fact is that by nature, people go through several stages. Young people under 20-30 have other priorities and ambitions. They think about basic things, how to provide for themselves. After 30 years, the search for themselves and their identity begins. That's when people begin to study national creativity, dress and look for their own personality code. Therefore, it's a matter of time.
Why, in your opinion, has national clothing not yet become an everyday norm in Kazakhstan, like, for example, in Uzbekistan?
- In Uzbekistan, ethnicity is a part of life. Women and men calmly wear national elements in everyday clothes: to work, to meetings, to cafes. It's organic. But in our country, ethnicity is still associated with Nauryz, the stage, official events. The tradition is as if "kept in a museum." To change this perception, it is important to adapt it to the modern code: introduce elements into everyday fashion, promote the visual identity of brands, involve artists, influencers, musicians so that they show by their example that ethnicity is beautiful, relevant and modern.
What inspired our ancestors when creating clothes, and how does it work today?
— Each element had a meaning. The ornament was a talisman. The cut was a reflection of everyday life, climate, and lifestyle. Women's clothing emphasized status, men's clothing emphasized courage. The history of a person was read through clothing. Today, designers are inspired by these principles: they rethink forms, symbols, and adapt them to modern clothing, details, and accessories. This is a way to preserve a living tradition — without a museum, without a glass display case.
What tradition is especially important and close to you?
— Without a doubt — konakzhaylyk, hospitality. This is not just a tradition, it is a philosophy. Respect, patience, generosity of spirit — it is all in it. I really want us not to lose the warmth of live meetings and gather at the dastarkhan not only on holidays. Unfortunately, now we visit each other less and less often, we have become Europeanized, we are becoming closed. This is neither good nor bad — it has just changed. But hospitality is our cultural code, and it is important to preserve it.